In the last post we were on the way to Seville for a couple of days. What an amazing city. Beautiful old houses with lovely tiled entrances leading to plant filled atriums. Large grand buildings being actively used as government offices. Narrow streets with the omnipresent Tapas bar. The largest wooden structure in the world (who are we to doubt their assertion). And a river meandering through the city.
A great finish to Jane's month in Europe.
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The "other owner" in Seville |
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Plaza dr Espana, better than it's photo! |
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Busking at the Plaza
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Typical grandeur of Seville |
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Metrol Parasol, also known as the Mushrooms |
Then I took Le Bateau back up the River Guardiana. I was attracted by the dry South Australian outback feel, and what I had heard about Mertola at the upper limit of navigation. And it didn't disappoint. About 60km upriver, totally fresh but tidal water, but rocky and impassable at all but high tide.
I did some reconnaissance of the last 7 kilometres by dinghy at low tide. That way I could see the rocks, and record a track to follow. I used Locus Map on my phone and the track was accurate to just a few metres, which was a good thing. Google maps gave me a few more clues.
Mertola was worth it. A castle high on the hill with Roman, Moorish and Catholic background set the scene. The watermills set into the river bed were interesting. At one stage it was the most Western port in Southern Europe.
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Rocks that are just covered at high tide |
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Google Earth image of a very shallow patch |
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Mertola, the fortress, the town and the river. Even the road bridge is impressive. |
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A watermill masquerading as a bunker. |
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And the millstone inside. |
While in Mertola I did a bike ride to an old mine site. In Portuguese style few signs, few safety fences but interesting ruins to wander around. On the road I passed an amazing number of Stork nests. On the high tension lines the power companies even fit rotating bird scarers to keep the poles nest free.
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Mina e Ruinas de Sao Domingos |
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Storks nests on nearly every pole |
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Fog at sunrise when my swim felt a bit too cool |
Going downstream I met up with Leif and Iris from Kobenhaven and we were anchored in front of a beautiful gum tree. A Netherlands registered French built yacht with Australian skipper alongside a Danish boat in a Portuguese/Spanish river in front of a very Australian looking tree! Had a lovely dinner on board their yacht "Grace"
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Leif and Iris on "Grace"
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Grace, Le Bateau and a gum tree
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Then out to sea to Tavira and the lack of wind was made up for by the large dolphins. This time of year, or this year, is very quiet wind wise in the Algarve. A surprising amount of calm weather.
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Finally a good photo of a dolphin |
From Tavira I sailed to the Faro area, a Coorong like maze of channels and sand islands. Here I am spending 10 days doing final preparations for the Atlantic, waiting for the crew Nigel and Russel to arrive, and getting a little impatient (it's time to get out to real ocean again)
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Cabo de Santa Maria,a fairly nondescript piece of sand but most Southerly bit of Portugal |
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The beach deserted even though still in the 20s |
When I walked inland from Faro I ended up in an irrigation area and there were lots of old pumps to be seen. Very primitive but looks like they were in service till fairly recently. A little engine, obviously belt drive to a big wheel with buckets going down to a shallow well. I probably saw 20 of them in a 5 km radius but now replaced by modern pumps
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Irrigation pump inland from Faro |
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A proper market near Tavira |
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Chooks for sale |
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Dramatic fish head mermaid? Sculpture in Faro boat Harbour. |
So next week hopefully Nige and Russel will have settled in and with the right forecast we will be leaving for La Palma Island, part of the Canary islands.
I have a Garmin Inreach satellite communicator and will be sending out tracking points every few hours. Also we have the ability to send and receive short messages from mid ocean and most importantly get up to date weather forecasts.
If you want to follow our progress in a live map I can send you a link. If you email me that you are interested I will send a link as we leave next week.
I wonder who is still reading at the end of a long post?
Next time from the Canary islands.
Doing well Ants. Looking forward to see you back home and taking that position as a Councillor on K.I.
ReplyDeleteUntil then good sailing....Tom
Great photos and you are right, awesome dolphin shot.
ReplyDeleteThanx for sharing, fair winds to you on the next leg!👍
ReplyDeleteI'm still reading! Good dolphin shot, and pretty good pic of you under that tower of driftwood...
ReplyDeleteEnjoying your travel blog Ants.
ReplyDeleteInteresting going up the river. Away from the regular tourist areas I suspect.
ReplyDeleteWishing you all the best for your Atlantic crossing. You are having the most amazing trip!
ReplyDeleteJane