Le Bateau kept moving West along the Spanish North coast in generally grey skies and a bit too lumpy seas until we got to the Rias (Spanish fjords)
These were lovely sheltered areas with fishing villages and comfortable anchorages. We also knew that most days we would have fresh to strong North winds in the afternoon so quite easy to plan our sailing.
In La Coruna we met up again with Liz and Scott who after their month of intensive Spanish school were keen to speak Spanish but still found it a bit of a foreign language.
Kerry and Jenny disembarked for Madeira and after a dinner out on the town Le Bateau continued South.
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The Motley crew changes |
Liz and Scott wouldn't describe themselves as experienced sailors but over the next few days aquitted themselves well. Passing Finisterre in 27knots of breeze was memorable.
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Rounding Cape Finisterre, the end of the world....well the finish |
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9 knots of boat speed at Finisterre |
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Terri (Jane's sis) on a walk around Vigo |
Terri arrived at Vigo to join the crew and her first sail was into Portugal.
The weather was still Northerly, a bit cool overnight but no sign of rain.
The sail from Lexioes (the port of Porto) to Lisbon was 170 nautical miles and for the crew the longest sail for all and first overnight for Liz and Scott. A bit too much motor but a warm arrival in Lisbon even though we had to push against the tide the last 3 hours. A good experience for all the crew.
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In the Lisbon marina |
Jane, the other owner, jetted into Lisbon on her birthday.
Jenny and Kerry came back from Madeira, and we had a lovely birthday dinner at a superb small restaurant chosen at random because it looked cosy. Enjoyed by all!
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Jane's birthday dinner in the lovely little Batata Doce restaurant Lisbon |
Liz and Scott, and Kerry and Jenny, left from Lisbon to start home for Australia and Jane, Ants and Terri continued South.
The weather got warmer, anchorages were readily available and we were swimming most days.
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Into the frying pan for Ants and Terri |
Terri left the boat at Setabul and the 2 owners kept moving South into good fishing territory.
We caught Albacore, Bonito and Tuna Mackerel over a few days.
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Fish for dinner (Bonito?) |
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Spanish windmill |
As we went South the country got drier and the air warmer. Rounding Cabo de Sao Vincente was similar to Cape Jervis on a breezy day. Same latitude N as Gulf St Vincent is S. It felt so similar to South Australia as did the next 50 miles of the Portuguese South coast. Limestone, dry, saltbush and scrub, nice sandy beaches, and 28 degrees every day.
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Another corner of Europe |
Arriving in Faro, except for a 6 knot tide against us (we motored at 6.5 knots for an age to gain half a mile) we anchored in clean water and woke to a beautiful sunrise. The wind the next 5 days stayed below 5 knots and not a cloud to be seen.
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Faro entrance |
Faro is in a Coorong like setting lots of channels, currents dramatically different from high tide to low tide.
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Obligatory Pastel de natas each day mmmmm |
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Alvor nature reserve boardwalk |
Alvor was a delightful spot a bit like going in through the Murray mouth to Goolwa and anchored in a shallow sand gutter. The boardwalk nearby went for 3 or so kilometres and as long as you looked in the right direction you could ignore the huge beach resorts that line the coast. If you could find the old town centres they were lovely, and just ignore the rampant development along most of the coast.
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Alvor anchorage, a little fishing town |
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Tavira Street art |
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Faro Street art |
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Culatra Island |
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Bishops Palace in Faro had an amazing tiled interior |
Probably the biggest change was as we entered the Guadiana River we ended up in drier country 30 degrees and really like the River Murray with gum trees and high hills on both the Portuguese and Spanish side. The river is tidal and by the time we were 26 nautical miles inland we were in fresh water. Probably saw 100 boats moored upriver and found out the expat community is probably 20% of the population. Most of those are yachties who found their dream hideaway. Plenty of these yachties have a river mooring and a small piece of land (2 hectares was mentioned) and a simple cheap lifestyle. A coffee or a beer seemed to cost one euro at most cafe/restaurants.
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A door we would love for home! |
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The dry Flinders like Guadiana River area |
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Looking down to the Guadiana |
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Jane on a Zip line going quickly from Spain to Portugal |
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Town of Sanlucar de Guadiana |
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Tiles, Ants, and the ever present Bougainvillea |
Now the boat is in Ayamonte Marina for a few days and the two of us are off to Seville for a couple of nights. Then Jane flies from Madrid back to Oz and Ants back to the boat.
The next couple of weeks will see Ants preparing the last things for the Atlantic crossing with the crew Nigel and Russell due at the end of the month.
Till then!
Really enjoy reading about your adventures and great pics of your travels maggie
ReplyDeleteAre the expats mainly living on the Spanish or Portuguese side of the border. Looks like ideal cruising territory.
ReplyDeleteYour blog makes very interesting reading! We're really looking forward to hearing all about the Atlantic crossing! Stay safe! X
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